- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a stunning splitter that I eyed a couple of years ago when we did a route right next door. It starts out with a 100ft of easy climbing with a short 5.7 crux. You can set up a belay on a nice ledge before the second pitch crux. The second starts out with a easy slab to a tricky dihedral that leads to a really cool roof with a interesting tongue of rock at the lip. You then get into the meat of a really steep hand crack that is a-typical needles crack climbing where you really need jam not only your hands but your feet too. At the end of it you get to a huge flake that Cronin slung right before the roof that finishes the pitch. The next pitch is a long one that goes through a tight constriction and may be 5.9 at the hardest and you can end on a nice gravel platform 150ft. The last pitch may not be 5th class but is cool and tops out the route 60ft 5.3.
Location
Route is on the southwest face of Harney. Walk off to the east and then down the gulley. Tough walk.
Protection
It definitely takes a full range of gear. I would take doubles to a .75, triples to a 3, two 4's and 5's, and a six. One rope.