- Edit (TBD)
Description
This striking dihedral would be classic except for a few reasons:
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Poison ivy bush at the base.
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Too short.
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Filthy and unprotected start.
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Big bushes in your face while trying to reach the dihedral.
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The pin wiggles.
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You can get your rope stuck in the crack when exiting onto the slab.
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You will smell like bird urine when finished.
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And last but not least: it's a massive sandbag!!!
You can back up the pin with some small brass. A couple of really hard stemming moves lead to a short hand crack (#1 or #2 Camalot or both). These moves are the crux, but it stays tough until you get to the lip. After the #2, a couple of nuts and a #0.5 at the lip will get you safely up. There are two big bomber nuts for an anchor, but the cord is pretty crusty.
Location
This is just uphill from
A Shadow Sickness
. Lower from 2 nuts at the top.
Protection
A few cams and some nuts (including RPs). Bring a new cord for the anchor.
Routes in Fiddlehead
- 8Stemadilemma5.11dTrad