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MapDescription
Climb the zig zag shelf just right of mossy gully past an optional 0.3 camalot. Continue over ledges and blocks gaining the squeeze chimney. Crux is pulling into the hand crack where the chimney narrows. Continue easily to a ledge and then up the easy crack/corner above the chimney to the anchor. Got its name as on the first ascent Dylan used a #4 camalot taped to a stick at the crux to reach a solid placement above. A #5 or #6 would be better.
Var. GMO Finish, 5.10a. At the top of the chimney, move left to narrow ledge. Climb left side of a steep pillar past a nut and a bolt to climb directly over the top. FA, Kris Fiore 5/29/14
Location
The obvious chimney, 10ft left of Aretenophobia
Protection
1 each: 3in, 4in (at least), .4in