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Peak Mountain 3

Eraserhead Spire

FA Kole DeCou/Jake Dayley 2006, FFA Jake Dayley 1/2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the NE face original aid line. With the addition of two bolts and a lot of cleaning it has become an excellent free pitch dubbed "Blue Velvet"

Climb up 30' of choss to the top of the large detached block.

The next 30' are what you came for! Climb through cruxy finger locks and hand jams to a fun section of perfect fingers topped by a jug rest. Clip a bolt and muscle out the steep face climbing finish and classic 5.9 mantle onto the summit. This is a spire, no send without the mantle finish!

Location

The obvious Easter Island head shaped spire at the base of Arch Enemy.

One 60'rap form the Dune anchors will get you down.

Protection

Doubles from thin tips to fingers Singles from big fingers to hands (#2 Camalot is the biggest piece you'll need) Several 60cm slings (need two for anchors) one quickdraw

One 60m rope.