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Peak Mountain 3

Corkscrew Traverse

FA Alex Hill, Alex Wodarczk, Jim Borton. July 3, 2020.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A multi-pitch route in The Gunpowder.  Really?  Yes, really.  This is a mash-up of two routes—Fin Land and The Moss Monster. P1: Begin on Fin Land. Complete the traverse to the left. Instead of continuing upward, keep traversing around the arete onto the northeast face. Set up a hanging belay in the horizontal cracks. P2: Move left and up. Place cams in the flakes overhead before moving further left into The Moss Monster off width crack. Place bomber cams in the crack. Climb the back of The Moss Monster to flakes up high on the east face. Put in a couple of good cams and lie back onto the summit ramp. Once on top look for a couple of horizontal cracks in the moss for placements. Then head up the ramp to the tree on the edge that overlooks the east face. Use the tree for an anchor, equalized with a couple of gear placements in cracks higher up. Rap off the tree.

Location

Start at the bottom of the steep west face. The climb corkscrews around to the east face.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches. Cams mainly. A few Tricams. Maybe a nut or two.