- Edit (TBD)
Description
This exciting pitch is an alternative to the 5.9+ P4 of
X-M
and is actually more in character with the "sporty" P3 of
X-M
. It's even protected by similar sketchball, rusty, Eldo pins, but at least there are 3 instead of only 2....
From the belay atop
X-M's
P3, look at the first dihedral to the right of
Outer Space's
P1. This is Liquor Mart.
X-M
continues along the broken strata up and right, while Liquor Mart goes straight up the dihedral. This is characterized by compression moves, difficult clips, and a crux move left to get established in the dihedral itself. A few moves above the 3rd and final lousy pin (not including the stray one way up and right) more gear can be had; the climbing also gets significantly easier. Finish and belay on the large, sloping
Outer Space
ramp.
I recommend linking P3 of
X-M
with this rather than building a belay at the sloping shelf at the guidebook finish of
X-M
-P3. That way, there is even more rope out to soften your fall onto the manky pins!
Location
This ascends the first dihedral to the right of
Outer Space's
P1.
Protection
Single cams from 00 to #3 and long slings.
Routes in The Bastille - N Face
- 25Liquor Mart5.11Trad