Arete Route

ONE OF THE ABSOLUTE BEST SPIRES ROUTES. CLASSIC TRAD.

Option 1: Begins Up Fear of flying and at about 45 feet (just under the F of F crux) pulls out of the corner onto the face around right (tricky) There is a bolt around the corner on the face that protects the move 10c) Pulls small roof on gear (10d crux) and then trends up and right (1 more bolt and knobs to sling ) to end P1 at Stepping Stone anchor.

Option 2: Begin up the Fear of Flying direct variation start on slightly tricky gear. Follow bolts past harder moves (11b/c) to gain small roof described in option 1 above

P2 (Brilliant!) works left and up to gain exposed arete on technical slightly run out ground, crossing neckless traverse up and left reaching double roofs next to arete. Climb over first roof with piton protection and traverse left under second roof and fully around left (very exposed) side of arete into 15 feet of superb exposed overhanging juggy (11a) crack before coming back around right to finish up tricky slabs to old 2 bolt anchor. Better anchor can be found by continuing to summit ( add 40 ft of 3rd class)

This is one of the very best, longest and least known routes at the Spires

The arete/face to the right of Fear of Flying. On top of spire is a rap anchor with chains

Single Rack to 2” and 1 bolt. All new hardware on protection bolt and anchor.