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People of the Sun
Description
A classic Sedona romp with plenty of physical climbing on "good" choss!
Pitch 1 - 5.10+, 30'. Pull off the ledge and onto the limestone band. Horizontal limestone sport climbing for 40 feet through a well bolted crux. At the major crack system climb up suspect rock for 20' to a two bolt belay on a mud ball ledge.
Pitch 2 - 5.9, 70'. Wiggle up an awkward flare above the belay and continue up the left angling flared crack. Pull over a chockstone of sorts and belay on top off of two bolts.
Pitch 3 - 5.10-, 60'. Climb through a cruxy thin section off of the belay on good rock. Chossier stone and varied climbing leads up past a few bolts to a nice two bolt belay ledge off to the right.
Pitch 4 - 5.10, 110'. Wild and exposed, this pitch will get your attention! Climb left off of the belay and up a steep ramp to the Karma block. Hopefully Sedona loves you and you've paid your dues bushwhacking and mooning helicopters. If the block pulls well.... guess you shouldn't have taken that pink jeep ride or built that artsy cairn that I kicked over. Good! Now you're standing on the Karma block, reach high and grab the beautiful patina. Very exposed patina climbing gets you to the relative safety of Agave Ledge. Clip a bolt and commit to one 5.9 slab move with a likely Agave feeding fall if you blow it. Follow easier terrain up the right angling ramp to a bolted belay at the tunnel on the shoulder of the Lighthouse.
Move the belay through the tunnel to the base of the summit block.
Pitch 5 - 5.10-, 30'. Same as the 6th pith of Spaceman. Climb up and then around the right corner of the summit block, pulling onto a long ledge that runs across the North face. Traverse the ledge and then up nice patina up to the summit.
Rappell - Rap 150 off of the summit to a ledge just below the obvious notch (Dry Hump Chump anchors).
Rap another 150 down Dry Hump Chump to the slabs on the north side of the Lighthouse.
Location
South face of The Lighthouse. Walk up the steep slabs on the south face of the tower. The route starts on a ledge where the limestone band meets the slabs.
Protection
(2) 60m ropes All pitches are mixed except the 2nd. 8 quickdraws plus some shoulder length slings. Singles of thin pro, doubles through big hands, a single fist and OW piece optional (I didn't use them).
Routes in The Lighthouse
- 1People of the Sun5.10+Trad