- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start up easy and blocky terrain to the base of the roof/overhang. Place a few handsize pieces in the crack under the roof and pull over it by liebacking around its left side. Surprisingly steep and powerful for the grade. I used a knee-bar here. Shove in a #3 camalot above the roof, and climb up and right on face holds to the first of 3 bolts. Above the first bolt, climb left along a lieback past a streak of white bird-poo to a second bolt. From here, steep face climbing leads up and right past a third bolt to the top.
While clipping the bolts, imagine climbing the upper face without them as was done on the FA! The FA party later added the bolts on toprope to protect what had been a very long (groundfall!) runout
Location
North side of Cold Springs Dome, along the approach to Makunaima Wall. Descend by scrambing down 3rd class to the east.
Protection
Single rack of cams to 3", a few long slings, and 3 bolts (1/2") on the upper half. Build your own anchor; be creative.