Wild at Heart

Wild at Heart follows the seam, arete, and ultimately the prominent dihedral spiraling around from South Face of Wild Rock. Use the ramp, and clip the first two draws of

Wild in the Streets

to clip the draw leading to the crack. From here, we back clean the first two draws to minimize rope drag. I recommend a locker on the third clip. Now begins the wild ride. Jam the crack, and continue up and right through jams, horns, underclings, mantels, and stems. This climb has all of the moves. Long or double draws on clips 6, 7, and 8 will help with drag.

Wild at Heart is named after an epic David Lynch movie.

It is on Wild Rock's South face.

This gets morning shade, midday sun, and evening shade. Cleaning can happen in two steps - one from the anchor and the other from

Wild in the Streets

anchor. Sorry! The route is right-leaning. Or a follower can clean.

10 draws and an anchor. If you are a bit timid, one can use a #3 Camalot in the crack.

The crack is gritty, and we were using tape or hand jammies.