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Peak Mountain 3

Cosmic Kite

FA bolted by Damon Johnston, FA: Christian Prellwitz
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start below the high first bolt, and reach high to a flat edge (alternatively, use the detached block at right to reach an obvious pocket, and pull onto the wall from there. The start is a bit chossy and starting at the pocket doesn't change the grade at all.). Easy moves on good holds lead to a stance at the 1st bolt. From here, launch into a powerful V6ish section through large hueco features that ends at the 4th bolt, where a good rest awaits.

After resting, move into a cryptic and very hard sequence involving barely usable handholds and delicate and tenuous smears through a steep slab that is somewhere in the V8ish range. A tenuous 5th clip complicates matters in the middle of the crux section. After about 15 feet of barely staying on the wall, you'll arrive at the 6th bolt. From here, the slab lessens in steepness and the holds start to improve. A final bulge guards the anchors.

A true test of slab skills, strength and technique from start to finish, this climb is unfortunately marred by lower quality rock on the first half of the climb, which definitely takes away from the overall quality of the line, but the movement and difficulty certainly make it worth getting on if you're looking for something more challenging in the area.

This was formerly the Wall Of The Ancients 'Project' listed in '

The Wild Wild West

' guidebook.

Location

It is located to the right of

Ionic Breeze

on the same pillar. This climb starts just left of a narrow gully/wide crack.

Protection

8 bolts. The first bolt is fairly high, so you may want a stickclip as the rock in the opening sequence is kind of chossy.