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Peak Mountain 3

Mountaineers Route

FA: Svenson and Crew P1, FFA p2 Dylan's Miller & Stuart, FFA P2 Dylan Stuart & Tobias Swimmer
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Description

Approach Pitch: Technical Climbing in loose dirt and trees up gully to Jaw Ledge. In the 70s this was more of a rock climb, but alders and plant life have made this more of a historical footnote than anything. 5 easy(optional but recommended approach): Climb Jaw Way, 30ish meters of bolted slab that starts below the 3rd fin.Pitch 2: 2 bolts in shallow crack/corner leads to pumpy corner bulge pull before a small ledge, continue up 5.10 off width or traverse left into 5.9 hand crack before final 2 SS bolts and 1 ancient bolt on featured 5.7 layback to 2 SS Bolts on "Jurassic Ledge".  5.10+/5.11-Pitch 3: Strenuous corner climbing leads to crux in large flare type feature, more corner climbing to first alder ledge and 2 SS bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. Short but strenuous 5.11

Location

From trail, you will arrive at a meadow and the trail forks. Take the left for slab start, or right to scramble up the traditional gully start. 

Protection

Mostly small to .75 gear, singles 2 & 3, draws/slings.  If leading the p1 off-width a 5 would be useful, but most parties have traversed around it. 


Routes in 4th Fin (Mountaineers Buttress)


  1. 1
    Mountaineers Route
    5.11
    Alpine · Trad