We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

The Peuterey Ridge

FA Shingo Ohkawa, Paul Ross, April 16th 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Named after the majestic Peuterey Ridge on Mt Blanc... The ridge has little majestic climbing after all its only the Sandstone Alps ! Given three stars for it being a fun climb in a nice setting with great views.To get to the start keep on the flat until directly below the ridge then hike steeply up to the top of the wave.

P1)Easy climbing up to the foot of the corner and double anchors. 60' 5.3.

P2)Climb the groove to the roof past one bolt and some cam placements then left to where the ridge flattens. Here one will pass rap anchors for descent. 60' 5.7.

P3) About 600' of 4th class to where the ridge steepens below a chossy gully.

P4)Enter the small gully and exit right up to the start of the perfect rock on the final buttress. One can take a natural belay here (60')or continue about 70' to the summit passing cam, stopper placements and one bolt .130' 5.4. A stance was taken behind the summit block.

Register under small cairn.

Rap anchors on the summit block. Rap the route.

Location

Camp at the end of the Two Finger Canyon road. Hike south for about 30 mins to One Finger Canyon keeping on the flats. Walk up to just before the entrance of the canyon then hike up to the left...continue keeping low until the obvious Ridge comes into view.

Protection

Cams 1/4" to 2.5" Stoppers. Might just need one 60m rope for descent.