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Peak Mountain 3

Scarecrow

FA Carter and Zeigler (1967)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

New as of 2018: this route on this face of the formation is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing.

This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

Scarecrow is located on the west face of Kindergarten/Grey/Cathedral rock. Look for a large plate like outcropping. In roughly the middle of the face is a black (magnesium?) scarred hand crack (located conveniently between Monster Crack and Lance).

To gain access to the crack you'll need to either power up and over a hollow sounding bulge (great texture and seemingly solid jugs) or start a bit right and climb a ramp (allegedly slightly easier, but I haven't taken this route). Either way you'll have a hard time plugging solid gear for the first 20 feet.

Once you've reached the crack, the fun begins. One of two crux's is shortly above the ledge (you'll note 1-2 pitons denoting hard climbing). Climbing is a mix of face and jams on well textured rock. Plow upward and you'll face an easier crux a bit shy of the anchors.

Based on the number of ascents of time, I'd suggest that the rock is more durable than it sounds. If you're not into placing gear in hollow sounding Garden rock, climb lance or monster and belay from the top. You'll need two 50m ropes for the rappel.

Did I mention that this was really well-textured rock?

Protection

Nuts and small cams will plug most of the crack. Anchor is two 3/8" bolts.