Dry Doctor (aka Buzzworm)

This is a good route if you're looking for a cavey tick at the grade and has lots of varied, bouldery moves on super-steep terrain.

Buzzworm is one route left of

Fluff Boy

, and while it lacks the perfect stone in the middle of the cave, this route has cleaned up (and gotten harder) with traffic. Two bolts close together down low in a perfectly horizontal roof mark the start.

Reef out onto a block/jug and trend generally left along hard-to-see block and pinch features. This route is very sustained, but with modern kneebar technology you may be able to cop a shake or two along the way. Expect long moves to positive holds and a nice finish on featured orange and tan rock.

10 quickdraws.