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Peak Mountain 3

Wheatbelly Chimney

FA Derek & Giselle Field (2018)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 (5.8+, 90 feet): Slab past three bolts and gear into the narrowing chimney, then stem through an awful 20-ft sugar band with a bolt near the top. Belay from the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.9, 90 feet): Climb up and out a big bombay/roof (crux) and continue all the way up the tight chimney/offwidth, bumping a trusty 6" cam (or two) for about 50 feet of moderate terrain. After birthing yourself from the chimney, step left to climb out the small roof on its left side. Around the left side of the roof is a short left-facing dihedral leading to a two-bolt anchor next to a bench seat.

Scramble 30 feet to the summit.

Location

Obvious chimney on the west side of the spire.

Protection

Single rack to 4" + one or two 6" cams One 60m rope


Routes in Wheatbelly Spire


  1. 1
    Wheatbelly Chimney
    5.9
    Trad