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This 2 pitch sport route starts about 40' up and left of the

Bitty Buttress

route, as if starting on

A's Jax

, staying right, out of the unpleasant dihedral. Facing almost due south, it gets lots of sunshine and is somewhat protected from westerly winds.

Pitch 1: 5.11a, 90', 9 bolts. Start with 3 bolts on the slab/fin right of the dihedral, then stem left across the corner onto a steep wall, hitting an unusual crux at bolt 5. A nifty slab (.9-) takes you up to the anchor. This is an excellent pitch all by itself. It's probably best to follow rather than lower.

Pitch 2: 5.12a/b, 45', 6 bolts. Some 5.9 leads up to the 4th bolt where a height-dependant move is encountered (harder if under 6' tall). An interesting sequence sets up the crux toss at bolt 5. This pitch is fairly steep but not overly powerful--some thoughtful, technical movement is required to "send". Though it's a reasonable redpoint, without tic-marks or beta the onsight should deliver that special 5.12 feeling.

Lower off, then rap the first pitch.

10 draws plus anchors after each pitch.