- Edit (TBD)
Description
Begin by stepping left onto a featured face that leads up and right to a blunt arete. Continue up steep 5.5 climbing on large, positive holds to a stepped ledge section. More steep climbing above this ledge, on sometimes slopey holds and perhaps the crux, leads to a crab crawl right to reach a bucket that will take you back left to the anchor.
Location
Tiddlywinks starts 10 feet right of Boldly Departed. Look for a path of stepping stones traversing a slope along the base of the cliff just left of the obvious large corridor. Please tread lightly here to prevent further soil erosion and to help preserve the fragile vegetation on this unstable slope. Climb the left arete of the large, steep corridor, opposite The Megaplex, ending at a lower off anchor just below the crux of Boldly Departed. It may be possible to link this route into the crux of Boldly Departed with a 5.11 or 5.12 move, finishing on that route. The Megaplex begins on the right arete of this same corridor.
Protection
8 bolts lead to a 2 bolt mussy/steel carabiner lower off.
Routes in Mustache Wall
- 28Tiddlywinks5.8Sport