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Peak Mountain 3

Gallows

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Description

This route is found on the left side of the Prospect Wall and features varied climbing of a mostly moderate nature with a single 5.10 boulder problem towards the beginning. The route is very steep and includes a couple of exciting moves from the low-angle crack system onto the steep face to the right.  There are two places where the climber can transition onto the steep face, the first is at the white guano-covered rock just after the crux of the route.  There's a large, grainy sloper jug out right that you pull up onto and then set your feet before placing some gear in the sharp crack above.  Moving onto the face at this location is spicier and more exciting than the next option which is about 15 feet further up the crack system where several juggy holds appear on the right hand face, including a slot that fits a 3" cam in a downward-pointing position.  Whichever way you make it onto the steep face, continue further up staying left until you reach the bolt which protects the very top of the climb. There is a rap anchor at the top and the route can be rappelled with a 60m or longer rope.

Location

On the left side of the Prospect wall, this climb can start either at ground level or at the two-bolt anchor on a ledge about 20 feet up.  See topo (this climb is marked as climb K on the hand-drawn topo)

Protection

2 bolts + Single Rack up to 3" with a couple extras in the .4-.6" range.