Barbarians Near the Gate

Cruxes on P4 and P5. The slab crux on P5 is at least old school slab 10b. To descend the route: rap down the belay stations till you reach the traverse ledge (3 raps). Then climb the traverse pitch in reverse. Rap the first two pitches. Each pitch has great climbing on it, but P5 is unique to the area. 1,000's of big chicken heads!!!!

From the top of the climb you can contiue up 2/3 ledges to the pipe and hike up to the dam.

Left of Bard Harrington route.

Approach. check out the two approach photos. This can all be seen from the turnouts on 120 just below the green bridge.

I approach the climb from Ellery Lake. Park at the dam, cross the creek(s) and follow the road down canyon until it ends and the pipe starts. Follow the pipe until you get to the big talus field on the left. Leave the pipe and descend the right side of the talus field. there are several stand out large trees to mark your way. Follow the boundry of the slabs and talus when you get below the big trees and watch for a huge boulder.

I leave my pack, etc. under the shade of the boulder and rack up there. I wear my approach shoes down the gulley which is maybe 100 yards from the boulder. The gulley is marked with short pieces of climbing rope at the top and along the descent. It is about 70 m long, class 2/3. trail cairns are a definite hazard here because you are on the top of the cliff. (I've seen rocks go down the gulley and over the cliff!).

when you get to the cliff walk up canyon a short ways until you find the first set of anchors WITH CHAINS.

This is a sport bolted route. you need 18 draws including 2 of single sling length, plus what ever you use at belay stations. Easy back cleaning of 2 bolts is possible on P1. If you do this you only need 16+ draws. You definitely need a 70 m single rope to do this climb. The bottom 2 rappels are 35+ meters.