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Peak Mountain 3

Waugh Direct

FA Jim Waugh, 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The direct finish to Swept Away is just so damn good that it deserves its own listing. Really! Avoid that puckering leftwards traverse along crunchy flakes that is the original second pitch and instead take on the imposing strength of the wall. Spectacular positioning along Neptune's curving prow with ample air below combine with impeccable rock and spellbinding movement to deliver an unforgettable experience. You'll need to muster your sorcery and creativity as much as your finger strength and precision core tension to sail this ship past the Reef!Hardware updated to 1/2" SS sleeves 10/31/21. Thanks CASA/ASCA!

Location

Direct finish to Swept Away. Where the original P2 breaks left, continue following the corner and incipient cracks into the line of bolts; the first bolt is an original "honker", the rest have been updated to 1/2" SS. Anchor is #1-#3 cams and a thread around a huge boulder pile atop Neptune; watch the sharp edges.

Protection

6 bolts; 2x 0-0.4 and small to medium stoppers; #1-#3 cams and a long sling for anchor; RPs may be helpful for the initial P2 crux