- Edit (TBD)
Description
Ascend a flared seam (reminiscent of
5.11 Crack
, although lower angle) to a good horizontal crack (reminiscent of Bad Saturday) and set a few good pieces. Traverse along the horizontal to a good, basketball-sized cobble, mantle up, and run it out up a steadily steepening face to a good-sized ledge at the base of a chimney/offwidth. You are in groundfall territory when you go for the mantle onto the ledge. From here, you have three options: walk off/downclimb low angle slabs to the climber's right, belay at the ledge and climb the offwidth for the second pitch, or take a horizontal to the left onto a good ledge and belay there. The first ascent traversed left, because I left all of my wide gear at the base after being told (erroneously) that the offwidth was too wide to protect. Plan for #6 Friends and/or #4 Bigbros if you go that route. The summit of the formation is another 100 or so feet beyond. Walk off the summit to climber's right, towards Land of the Rising Moon.
Location
About 150 feet right of
Glen's First Name
, or about 50 feet right of the original Water Streak. Look for the chimney above, the route starts directly underneath it.
Protection
A few nuts for the seam, a couple of hand-fist sized pieces for the horizontal (a #4 Friend fits incredibly well a few feet left of the cobble). The FA used Camalots #0.75-3.5 (old style), but the offwidth will need 6" and larger pro.