- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is AMAZING. listed as 12d in Brandon's guide if you start on the right easy detached block, this route gains stars and difficulty if you do the direct hard bouldery start. Either way, after the opening sequence, a hard choice needs to be made either involving the coolest side pull mono ever, or a tough undercling sequence for taller climbers. It's not over after this hard boulder however as a heads up sequence leads to a RAD dyno to a TGJ. Get it all back for the 12- face above which is long pulls between amazing iron holds. A sandbag at 12d even with the easy start, Both ways are 13a, but the dirrectissima gets that fourth star. This line is much harder then Zen or Gene Wilder etc. and mid-range 13a compared to other Red routes. It is fantastic and worth attention! Get on it, you will love it!
Location
First route right of Yoko Ono with the amazing and obvious dyno/dp opening move. Trends up left similar to Yoko Ono.
Protection
10 ish QD (Mussies at the top!)