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MapDescription
Classic five nine climbing that starts on a low angle slab and protects with some smaller gear up to a small roof that forces the climber right into a wide angle, chicken winging crack that soon gives up some of the best face climbing around. Place small gear and clip bolts on a gorgeous face of crystals to a picturesque summit. Feel the burn deep inside your red ruby slippers! This one will not die easily.
Location
Almost directly behind Lions share and downhill on the West face.
Protection
Standard Rack. Emphasis on smaller finger sized off set nuts and small cams. C3's to #3 C4 camalots. Long slings are a must. Those with 60 or 70 meter ropes will want to bring two of them. 80 meter to 100 meter ropes will get you off the summit with just one rope.
Routes in I'm Melting Spire
- 1I'm Melting5.9Trad