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Peak Mountain 3

Alabama Crack

FA Harvey Carter? '50s?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This comment is from Stewart Green from the Nose page: "Around the corner to the left [of the Nose] is "Alabama Crack." There are two starts to it. Climb up and left from the slab below the Nose roof to a belay shelf below Alabama Crack or from the gully below the crack, climb up and right past a couple old fixed Harvey pitons (5.9) to the belay shelf. Jam the crack 50 feet to a [ledge] with a 2-bolt rappel anchor that Brian Shelton and I put in a year ago."

I climbed this today by climbing up to the Nose roof, clipping a blue sling fixed to a piton and wired nut underneath the roof, then traversing left under a nice flake to the large ledge on the corner of the formation and beneath the Alabama. I belayed here off a fixed piton, and a couple cams (1", 1/2") to avoid rope drag for the upper section.

There are some scary loose blocks above the 2-bolt anchor which could seriously injure your belayer or possibly damage the rope if they were dislodged. Some people might consider only climbing this to the 2-bolt anchor for this reason.

I did not see any pins protecting a left start, as mentioned by Stewart.

Location

This is on the West Face of the Nose, right off the Mid-Columbine Trail. You can't miss it.

Rappel.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot and quickdraws for a few pins along the way.


Routes in The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)