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Peak Mountain 3

The Big Deal

FA Rick Ziegler/Austin Archer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 -From 2 bolt anchor atop The High Life, follow a slabby, right trending crack for 40 meters. Where crack peters out, step left into seams protected with small to med nuts lead to 2 bolt anchor. 5.7. Gear: Nuts, doubles of small to med cams, single #1-#4 Camalot.

P2- Can be broken into 2 shorter pitches or 1, 60 m pitch. From the belay stem up seams (5.8, gear and a bolt). Step right to a bolted slab move, then up left facing flake, pull over this to the right to a bolt and optional 2 bolt anchor. Move up easy but hollow flakes to a left facing corner that climbs over 2 roofs to 2 bolt anchor on left. 5.8, gear to 3.

P3- Move right into low angle fist crack, to a ledge. Follow left arching flake protected by small cams. Near top of arch step right and follow 4 bolts (5.9) to left leaning lieback protected by gear to 2 bolt anchor. 20 m.

Rappel route with 1 – 70m rope or 2 60m. The fourth rappel uses a 2 bolt anchor 30m below the P1 anchor.

Location

At the far right of PSOM Slab

APPROACH: Follow directions for PSOM Pinnacle. Continue on approach trail until at base on “The High Life.” “The High Life” starts 100 feet left of “PBR Streetgang” in a right trending flake, 5.8 (35m).

Protection

Stoppers. Double of small to medium cams. Singles #1 - #4 Camalot.