Lung Fish

Trundles up the clean sheet just left of Drunken Monkey. Not the most inspiring route to look at but the movement and bullet stone make up for what it lacks in visuals.

The first 4 four bolts ( skipping the 3rd ) deposit you at the first of 2 cruxes ( allocate about 10 second for this section ). Chew on your knee in the massive drop knee or huck for good crimps ( skip the 5th bolt ), grab the pinch in a faint corner, fall off ( allocate about 10 seconds for this section also ). Your investment of 20 seconds got you about 20 feet of climbing; get used to it as you will probably repeat this many-a-time.( allocate 1 to 10 days for this section )

If you are lucky enough to sketch through the bottom, pull up into the corner and cop a rest ( allocate 2-3 minutes for this section including resting ) and then tackle the upper crux. Grimp through on good holds with bad feet and try very hard not to fall off, you will not be happy with yourself if you do (allocate about 20 seconds for this section).

Rest under the big roof ( allocate 2 to 15 minutes for this section ), convince yourself that you will not fall off and hike the last .12 section to the anchor.

Total it all up:

1 season of work ( maybe less, maybe more, maybe never ) 15-30 minutes on the point burn 2-3 minutes of actual climbing OR Do it like Sharma and hike it in a day.

Figure if Drunken Monkey and Family Unit get 2 stars this has got to be 3 stars.

11 bolts to chains but you only clip about 9 of em generally skipping the 3rd and 5th bolts