We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Toog's Terror

FA Jim Smith and John Armitage 4/1964
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a true Pinnacles adventure which was put up during the Golden Age of climbing at the Pinns.  There isn't much protection on any of the pitches, but the climbing isn't hard.  Bring a good head for adventure!

Probably the most difficult move is gaining the face at the bottom of the route.  Climb a steep, mossy 10-15' pinnacle of rock which is leaning against the wall.  From there scramble up the low angle slab enjoying the amazing succulent plants(try not to step on them!) for about 120 feet to a huge meadow and tree anchor.  There is no protection on this pitch.

To start the second pitch, find a dead pine tree which has a somewhat flattened trunk because it has been growing against the wall.  Bearhug the tree to gain the ledge above and belay on sparse anchors.

Pitch three heads up the ramp to the left to a low angle water streak with a bolt.  Clip the bolt and pad up the streak to the top and the two bolt anchor for Toog's Trailside.

Rappel 60' to the base of Toog's Trailside.

Location

From the highest point where ground meets the west face of the formation head downhill to the north for about 250 feet until you can see the easy slopes of the northeast face.  Find a 10-15 foot mossy pinnacle with a crack leaning against the main wall which is the start.

Protection

Slings for tree anchors and a few quickdraws for the bolt on pitch 3 and the top anchors.


Routes in Toog's Upper