- Edit (TBD)
Balconies- Regular Route
Description
Nice line but sketchey rock quality! High choss factor with a wee bit of bat guano mixed in. The charm for me was climbing a line put up by Yosemite hard guys way back in 1961. For perspective, the Salathe Wall on El Cap was put up just three months earlier. I wonder how many bolts had been placed anywhere on the planet before Sacherer, Bradley, and Roper put up this line? Wonder how much time and effort each bolt entailed?
First pitch felt like sustained 5.10 and crux felt 10c-ish.
This route gets direct morning sun and cooks on warm days.
Location
Approach as for Lava Falls; a few minutes past the Lava Falls turnoff from the big trail look for a climber's trail (there are a few signs with carabiners painted on them) and head up. DESCENT: Hike a few minutes down hill and (double rope) rappel the route Hook and Drill(route #728 in Brad Young's 2007 guide). Big fixed anchor with chains here. Note: This area is usually closed for for bird nesting January through July; check before you go.
Protection
This line was rebolted by Clint Cummins and "Friends of the Pinnacles"(Bruce Hildenbrand) in 2006. Thanks Clint and Bruce! Many draws. I did place a few cams (red and yellow camalots) up high as well as a few nuts. The gear info in Young's guide was spot on for me. Combining pitches works (Young's guide calls it four pitches) but be mindfull of rope drag.
Routes in The Balconies
- 12Balconies- Regular Route5.10cTrad