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Peak Mountain 3

Spontaneous Combustion

FA Tony Yaniro
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Awesome, awesome, awesome... not quite as much awesomeness as Pyromania, but still worthy. Multiple cruxes pretty much sums this route up: Strange fin-pinching and jamming, a burly undercling, a techy seam, a crimpy face, and a delicate sequence up and around a high arete.

Use caution during the first 40' of climbing as the pro is small, finicky, and the rock is not so good. Above this you can climb with reckless abandon as the falls are clean - though possibly long.

Original rating was 12c/d; current book calls it 12a in the index. I think 12c is about right.

Location

Begin a bit down and left of Pyromania at a steep, right-facing corner capped by a red roof.

Protection

RP's to #1 Camalot. A few slings to minimize drag. Two bolts protect the upper face, then a long fun out to a bolted anchor around the left (south) side of the Fire Wall.


Routes in Fire Wall


  1. 1
    Spontaneous Combustion
    5.12c
    Trad