Idiocracy

This line climbs an inobvious face to the right of Unimpeachable groping. We encountered bail gear at the top of the first pitch then no further sign of climbers above this. The climbing is ok, with the highlight of the route being position and the fact that it goes bolt free! Start at the far end of the exposed ledge that starts at the unimpeachable tree. P1 100’ 5.8 Climb a short face to a chossy wide crack, climb crack halfway up to the obvious roof, then step left onto the featured face. Weave up the face to a stance below a large right facing flake. P2 90’ 5.7 Climb the right facing corner up to a ledge. P3 140’ 5.8+ R Step right off the ledge and dance up the face. Trend far right, almost to the arete to find some gear, then back left to gain a nice finger crack that leads to a semi hanging stance, belay off a large chossy thread. P4 120’ 5.10- Climb the varnished crack on the right to the butt crack roof. Follow this to a stance below a flakey wall. P5 150’ 5.10- Face climb up and left to a crack through varnished plates on a roof. Trend one more crack system left and follow this as the angle kicks back to a large bushy ledge on the crest. P6 40’ 5.6 climb the left facing corner belay in the gully P7-9 300’ 5.10 From here we traversed the gully and finished on blade runner.

Decent: rappel the blade runner decent with a single 70 or double 60’s

Approach as for unimpeachable groping. Once at the tree that marks the start, scramble to the right to the far end of the exposed ledge.

Single rack micro to 4, doubles .3-2