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Peak Mountain 3

Jungle Gym

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Description

Pitch 1: Start at the spot found in the picture section. Scramble up from there 20 ft. Continue up as the path described by the yellow rope found in the picture titled “Entire Pitch 1.” In a similar picture, you'll find a yellow circle, red circle, and purple arrow marking. The yellow circle marks the place where this pitch ends, a blueberry evergreen type tree. Go next to a very healthy small evergreen blueberry tree, just on its right where there is a nice ledge. This belay spot will protect you from falling rock if the leader releases blocks on the 2nd pitch. The red circle marks the crux of the pitch, where there is a small but difficult roof. The roof move is about a 5.8 DWG move…prepare to do pull ups. If the roof appears too cruxy for you, there is an escape to the left where the purple arrow is pointing to, that will allow you to skirt left and then back on top of the crux. However, beware as you come to that arete where the purple arrow is, there is some loose rock…don’t grab just anything. The picture with the yellow rope shows the line curving hard right (see the zoom picture) from the crux to get to the right of the small evergreen for a belay point, but feel free to head straight up from the crux. I thought the rock just below and left of the small evergreen looked sketchy and chose to move hard right, ending up on the right of the small evergreen. Again, this is a safer belay spot to protect you from rockfall anyway. Picture of the first belay found in the picture section. You can choose to belay just prior to the evergreen tree (just beneath) if you have #3 and #4 BD Camalots on you then. 110ft

Pitch 2: Exit left and up from the evergreen tree to some easy slab (10ft) and immediately into a large corner on your right (with a roof above to the slight left). Above you, you'll see many small trees, larger trees, and eventually a large thorn hanging bush (growing down). Don’t attempt to go on top of the formation that was above you at the belay. Instead stay in the corner, occasionally leaving the corner to the left a little to avoid loose blocks, branches, and small trees. Extend carefully to avoid rope drag. There are some very loose 50lb blocks on this route. Aim to get just to the left of the massive hanging thorn bush. Stand on top of the thorn bush (the stalks are lying flat to reach out to the sun and down). Then climb the easy 20ft chimney with stemming. Face outwards as you do this chimney. Near the top of the chimney you'll find good edges on your right (your right as you face out of the chimney) side to transition out and around onto the arete, which is 5ft out of your reach. It may seem overhanging to make this reach, but there is a nice spot for your foot on that arete once you commit out to the arete and good small fingers. One clawing onto the arete, climb about 5ft and you are at the top. 20ft back on the top there are nice slots for cams. See pic titled “2nd belay” in the pictures section. Make sure to extend from your set up back to the top edge of your climb, so that you can communicate with your follower. In this way, you'll be able to encourage struggling followers as they move from chimney to arete. 100ft

Like 75% of the lcimbs in the DWG, make sure to bring working cell phones or two-way radios. It is impossible to hear well at times with I-80 road traffic, wind, etc.

Protection

Standard gap rack: Small to medium cams, 2 large cams, set of stoppers, few small tri-cams.