- Edit (TBD)
Description
#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.
(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27 2014):
"This route starts to the right of the main corner up a left angling finger crack with feet. Continue up a hand crack on the left where the corner and starting crack meet, followed by a short section of fingers and offwidth. After the wide crack its pretty much hands to the anchor."
Location
Second line left of Marshmallow Safari. Round the corner and you're below a large, left-facing corner.
Protection
Many #2s and #3s BD for the top. The initial section will take #1s and .75s. Some will argue you should take several #4s or even a #5. But those people have eyes only for wide cracks and can't see the beauty of protecting deep within those wide sections. Couple of bolts at the top.
(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27, 2014):
(4).5, (3).75 & #1, (5)#2, (2)#3 & #4 Camalots. A bolt and an angle equalized with cord and webbing make up the anchor. Also a 70m rope just reaches.
Routes in 4X4
- 1Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner5.11-Trad