Ruby Slippers

This is the easiest way up the main Waterfall Wall and good fun.

Pitch 1: climb the first pitch of

El Sueño

, a bolted, left-facing corner. Keep going left past the first anchors to the anchors of Rocket Launcher's pitch 1.

Pitch 2: clip the first bolt of Rocket Launcher, then go left on a cool diagonal crack in the face. Then follow bolts to the top. Save a 0.75 C4 for the hard moves after the last bolt.

Variation:  skip the rappel and the first pitch. Go up easy cracks to the bolts on pitch 2.

Start behind the big pine tree on the right side of the wall. The climb diagonals to the left side of the wall.

I used Metolius TCUs: 00, 0, 1, and 2 and Camalots: 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, two 0.75s, and 1.