- Edit (TBD)
Description
A good route with a nice line up the center of the face. There is one bolt of aid that is used to turn the same roof that Godzilla's turns just to the left via the Toad's Lip.
Pitch 1: Climb past two bolts on the slab to reach the roof. A piece of gear under the roof is kind of nice as it is a little dicey to lean out and clip the aid bolt given the fall potential. If a piece of gear is placed be sure to remove (or extend) it after clipping the bolt to eliminate potentially hideous rope drag. Do the awkward aid move, then face climb to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Climb past a couple of bolts (11a) to obtain a shallow right facing flake. Belay on gear just to the left of the Montezuma's belay.
Pitch 3: One bolt leads to 10+ moves, then increasingly easier ground takes one to the summit.
Location
Center of the wall, starting in the same vicinity as Montezuma's.
Protection
Bolts and small cams to 2". A couple of slings (or an aider) for the aid moves on the roof bolt.