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Peak Mountain 3

The Green Mile

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Description

This is climb # 11 in the guide.Again, mostly due to the heat of the day, we only did the first (5.8) pitch, but this looked like a nice multi-pitch climb.START - At a dirty-ish left-facing corner about 20 ft right of the "upside-down-bottomless" buttress of "Skate-y Cat" (photo & photo of sketch). There is a large, somewhat-lose, white flake left of the corner and about 15-20 ft up. (lead photo)P1 - Climb up the less-dirty-than-it-seems corner, then step left onto the flake.  Now we climbed up left of the bolt to another bolt above the ledge. Straight up and over seemed 5.8, but moving right to a second bolt (on "Old Days") and up seemed about 5.5. 110-115 ft Rap with a 70m rope)P2 - Climb up and left (unprotected, but not difficult) to a bolt; now up to a 2nd bolt.  Here we went up slightly left of the bolt to the blueberry-covered ledge (5.7). If you climb onto the far right side of the blueberry ledge you can get good gear (med. cam) at the base of the overlap. From the middle of the ledge, climb up on good rock to the belay. 70-80 ft 5.7

 P3 , 4 and 5 are described in the guide and are listed at 5.8, 5.6, and 5.6 They go up and right, crossing the bottom of a "black slab", and into the trees and then up 2 pitches that are out of sight from the P2 anchors. The "black" slab has two bolts on it (the lower one may(?) be part of the rising traverse right of P3).  Climbing the black slab is about 5.6+ / 5.7 friction of the "don't stop" type. After the 2nd bolt the climb eases and gear pro is possible.Skate-y Cat and the Green Mile meet at the P2 anchor.  We got sort of "lost" and did the 3rd (and final) pitch of Skate-y Cat, which is the line (5.8) of 4-5 bolts up and slightly left of the P2 anchor. We found going up just a bit left of the 1st bolt to be a bit easier than straight over the bolt. 110 ft  5.8  Rap this pitch with a 70m rope

Protection

Draws and usual rack.