- Edit (TBD)
Description
This sport route climbs the textured face to the right of the large overhang. The second pitch is very enjoyable sustained face climbing which lets up somewhat near the top. The third pitch is not too thin, but proves to be a challenge. The impressive face to the left looks to be hard (5.11/5.12) climbing. The route would typically end after the third pitch, but could easily continue onto the upper slab, completing the full assent.
P1: 80’ 5.8 Start a few feet to the right of the toe of the slab. Find the first bolt at the lip of the first overlap, after that, head for the right hand corner of the massive roof.
P2: 100’ 5.9+ Climb left on the lip of the large overhang and up to a small flake. Move up and left to mantel onto a ledge, then make thin and sustained moves up and right to the bottom of a small right facing corner. Thin moves give way to easier terrain near the bolt anchor.
P3: 90’ 5.11c Gently overhanging strenuous face climbing gives way to easier slab. The steep section seems to be fairly sequence dependent and rather pumpy. Useful features are hard to distinguish amidst all the knobs. Where’s all the chalk?! Rap from the bolt anchor or continue on much easier slab to the top.
P4: 130’? 5.6? Climb through a bulge and onto the upper slabs which can be followed to the top. A tree halfway to the top can be used to rappel. Has yet to be climbed. Looks easy.
Location
Central area
Protection
12 draws