Best Hamster Ever

This has 2 short pitches (or one very long pitch) of juggy, protectable fun. It would make a fine early lead for the aspiring tradster - there are many options for pro. The lower section is surprisingly steep, and the upper section flirts with exposure.

P1. The lower face offers a range of variations, from 5.1-3 on the right (west) to 5.4-5 on the left. There is even a way to start by pulling onto a bit of a bulge/overhang in the middle (5.6?). All lines are characterized by deep jugs and odd huecos. Climb either to the 2-bolt anchor (above the most obvious line, on the left) or to the high point of the lower section, where you can sling the horn.

P2. Engage the arete of the upper section. The easier start is on the west side, and the steeper, spicier start is on the arete itself. Follow the arete to the top, stepping out over the NE face as desired (cleaner climbing, nice exposure; you're climbing right above the face containing

Takin' it Easy

). Belay at the anchor bolts on the summit (shared anchor with

Takin' it Easy

).

The lower pitch goes up the middle/left of the lower section of the Fourth Triangle. The upper pitch follows the arete of the upper section.

Light trad rack-- small to medium-sized cams. Note that many placements on the lower section are deeply incut rails-- your cam stems may be sticking straight up. This would actually be a great pitch for someone who owned big-sized tri-cams...