- Edit (TBD)
Kind Traverse, The
Description
This problem starts as for
The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed)
. However, move left along the series of crimps that ultimately deposit you into a large (jug) crack. There are several ways of topping it out that all tick in at the same difficulty.
It gets two stars because of its low-ball and ass-dragging nature.
Two cruxes:
The first crux: is getting the "pocket." It is about three moves in. There are two ways of doing it. Either shuffle your hands to negotiate a high heel hook, or do a tricky bicycle.
The second crux: There are three ways of doing this. After matching the right-facing gaston, hit the low jug. Shuffle your feet down to either to a big dynamic move to a sloper with a crimp in the back or heel hook the jug by your left hand.
Variations: Super Kind (V12) does a traverse into
The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed)
. You can get a knee bar at the beginning of
The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed)
. Low Kind (V10) skip the second crux by doing the ultimate ass dragger along the crimps that the Kind Traverse uses as feet (yes, this is easier). A V8 starts at the jug half way through the Kind Traverse.
Protection
Spotter (especially at the last crux since you can take an awkward roll into a tree) and pad. Potentially a strap a spotter can use to drag the pad beneath the climber.
Routes in Emerald Lake
- 2Kind Traverse, TheV11-Bouldering · Alpine