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Peak Mountain 3

Flaming Testicle

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Description

The most popular problem in the area.

This variation makes use of a few pockets to go straight up after the testicle, requiring more strength.

Beta:

Start on obvious, large rocks to the right and behind the testicle. Match on the testicle, using its good holds on the rear (flat side). Right hand to small 2 finger pocket above testicle. Climb up using the lip to get to the large pocket, cross, and finish on a bigger lip.

Crux:

The crux varies depending on height/reach, but it's usually getting to the large pocket or jumping for the end.

Other:

The back wall is fragile/crumbly but should not pose an issue. Having extra reach and height will be beneficial on this variation. Topping out here is dangerous, not recommended. The grade is highly debated

Location

~200 feet forward on the climbers trail. When getting on the trail it will be directly ahead of you, but will be on your left once you follow it.

Protection

1-2 pad(s) and spotter. The large pocket is known to have spiders. Down climb is challenging.