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Peak Mountain 3

Paddling About Variant

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Description

This 50 meter pitch is climber's right of

Paddling About's

P1. Scramble up the initial 50 feet of class 3 and 4 terrain (same as

Paddling About

) to where you feel you need the rope, which is probably just above a pine bush. Heading up and left from this location would follow

Paddling About

. This variant uses a fun finger crack to reach the P1-P2 belay ledge for

Paddling About

.

Instead of following

Paddling About

(5.5), climb up and slightly right through vegetated terrain (5.4) to a small ledge with an obvious finger crack. The crack heads up and left beneath a small diagonal roof. Climb the crack using finger locks and thin feet for a few moves (5.7+) then complete a few easier juggier moves straight up to a short dihedral capped by a small roof (5.6). Climb the dihedral and turn the roof to the left (crux, 5.8), then follow the finger crack for 20 feet (5.8) to easier ground. The amazing belay ledge atop P1 of

Paddling About

will greet you. Continue second pitch as for

Paddling About

.

I think this pitch deserves two stars, one for the crack and another for the position.

Location

Same start of but slightly cliimber's right of

Paddling About's

P1. It is left of the large tree midway up the lower face and ends at the same belay ledge for

Paddling About

.

Protection

The gear is pretty good in the crack. Nothing above a 0.75" Camalot is needed. Mostly small cams and nuts.


Routes in First Buttress