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Peak Mountain 3

Buying the Goat Farm

FA Dee and David Tvedt, 2003.
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Description

Expect to have some awesome exposure! Pitch-1 (50ft., 5.11a): Same start as Inside Passage (10a/b) up the lower portion of the obvious chimney on the far left side of Denial Ledge then veers out left following bolts into instantly overhanging and airy terrain. After about 15 or 20 feet there is a strenuously technical crux with pumpy moves before a ledge rest in a large hueco. From this ledge lean out and pull over the bulge onto easier friction-slab to belay. Pitch-2: ('Goat Cuisine Culture', 70ft. 5.9+): follow left bolt line traversing left and up to a high ledge to a fixed wire-draw and into the crux move around a bulge and rock window. From this point a thin friction-slab move yields to an easier finish and walk-off.

Caution: Rappel from summit to Denial Ledge is >100 feet). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.

Location

Far left side of Denial Ledge. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Map 1 page 80 and Topo E page 90.

Protection

bolts and chains