Life on your feet

This route is on the left side of the Bong Eater Buttress just right of "Desperado" the 5.8 chimney. Start by soloing up a short chimney to the ledge with trees below the route. Climb the first part of Desperado, at a good stance for placing gear, move up and right into the lieback flake. The flake becomes more strenuous with each move. When the flake runs out, thin face climbing on micro edges continues to the anchors. Three bolts protect the upper part of this pitch. The climb finishes at a two bolt belay.

A set of cams, a large cam or two for the Desperado start (I used old style #5 camalots, which may be the new #6). Small to medium nuts useful. Quickdraws.