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Peak Mountain 3

Tooth Decay

FA Larry Scritchfield, Andy Norman 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A strenuous route with surprising features that keep the grade at mid-5.11. Without them this route would be MUCH harder.

P1: Squirm up a tight chimney to a small pedestal on a slab below the roof. This belay is highly recommended due to a rope-eating constriction at the top of the chimney. 5.7, 40 feet. (Small cams and nuts for the anchor).

P2: Pad up the dirty slab to the very steep offwidth. Contort your way out the short but memorable crack. 5.11b, 40 feet.

The best spot to make an anchor is atop Laugh With the Sinners, about 15 feet south (toward The Fox). Gear for top anchor: #1TCU, #2 Camalot, #4 Camalot.

Location

Begin about 100 feet right of The Fox, at the base of a chimney leading to an offwidth roof in a large right-facing corner.

Protection

1ea. #.4 - #3 Camalot; medium to large Nuts 2ea. #4, #5 Camalot