We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Sun Dogs

FA RMWright, Mark Tarrant, August 2009 FFA Mark Tarrant
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sun Dogs begins by scrambling over the large block at the base and just right of the dihedral. Clip a travers bolt from the block, step out right to pick up 20 or so feet of exposure, clip and second bolt and then back clean the first. This will protect the traverse and prevent massive rope drag. Fire up throught the crack above, which is protected by camming units, to gain a tricky slab. Sun Dogs shares the upper 50 feet with

Speed of Light

. Overall climbing is a tad more difficult than

SOL

with tricky sections in the slab and again just below the anchors on the final headwall. Climbing is fun, well protected, and largely on excellent rock.

Mark picked off the first red point.

Location

Second route right of

Neda

, marking a bee line to the top. Sun Dogs shares the top anchor with

SOL

.

Protection

15 draws, a couple of mid to thin camming units, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. We used the yellow Camalot and the green Link Cam (0.75). This route requires (sic) either a 70 meter rope or double ropes to descend via a single rap. A 60 meter rope will not reach ground in a single rap!!! Alternatively, one can rap to the anchor on

Neda

and do it in two steps.


Routes in East Buttress


  1. 2
    Sun Dogs
    5.11-
    Sport · Trad