Chachapoya

Now that I'm back in full swing on the Proj, allow me to fill in some details on this obscure little gem.

Sam and I spotted, and then sacked up and led Sumo to the right. I'll never forget the mini-epic: once we were both at the gear anchor, it started pissing rain while we hand drilled. No rain gear, of course. We watched a flash flood-like waterfall cascade down the drainage east of the Cat Wall.

I couldn't help but notice that this open corner looked semi-decent, so after the anchor was in, I gave it go after things dried and found some pleasant, moderate climbing on it. Its not a classic by any means, but for someone who either doesn't have wide gear, or the necesary skills to lead Sumo, this is how a 10- leader could set up a TR. Plus, the wavy tight hands at the top are awesome!

Start up the corner beneath Sumo (shares bottom 30ft) that leads to a big ledge, instead of jumping into that monstrosity, move further left to the dihedral. The climb is varied and enjoyable. 2.5 stars.

Apparently there may be a direct start now?

FWIW, as this is an obscure route in the Warrior district, I chose a favorite, obscure Warrior culture from Northern Peru, especially because of the desert rain experience.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chachapoya_culture

This is in the "Warrior" themed sector of Rez Wall, about 100 m left of Pente. Look for the obvious wide splitter of Sumo, which starts from a ledge about 30ft up. This climbs the dihedral to the left.

Might need some help here, I remember mostly hands and thin hands [EDIT: Apparently there's 30' of fingers at the top!). Is it douchey to say "A Standard Desert Rack"?  at least triples from 0.3-0.4, and doubles to 2's. Definitely save some [0.3's and 0.4's) for the last 30 ft! Double length runners are helpful- but it may be even better to lead with two ropes, switching to a different cord once you reach the dihedral. Shares anchor with Sumo. 70m will BARELY make it (I think we used two 60's- just be heads up)!!