Head On

We climbed this surprisingly good route in April 2013, not having a clue what it was, then with the publication of Calderone’'s LCC guide (vol. 2) earlier that summer, voila, the details emerged. The first part of the route apparently is the same as

Baja Breakdown

, and the second part is referenced in zozo'’s comment posted on the

Baja Breakdown

page, but the best climbing is above on the headwall of the buttress. The Calderone guide shows it going in two pitches, with chains atop the first pitch, but we did it in one long pitch and I suspect this is the better value (use runners liberally). Nice addition to the area.

Start in a cool little right-facing and soon-arching corner past a pin, step left, then climb steeper ground past three more fixed pieces to the stance. Resist the urge to turn the lead over to your buddy, and jam the nasty little overhanging crack above (crux) and climb through a blocky section until able to step onto the headwall. A ways up there is a bolt. Get to it, then keep moving to and up a seam to the right that leads to the chains.

See

Baja Breakdown

page.

Nuts (steel or brass useful), single set of cams to maybe 2.5”, draws, and runners. Two raps down the route.