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Peak Mountain 3

Locktite

FA The Dynamic Duo themselves; Jay Smith and Jim Donini
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Description

This route is great. It's identifiable as a long finger crack that faces south south-west, with an anchor consisting of two Metolious rappel hangers. The climbing is engaging and reminds me of an easier version of another of Jay's routes; Manta Ray. Lots of features and lots of finger crack climbing. The original grade of 11- seemed like a sandbag but stick with that if you feel it's fitting.

Location

This route is left of the two .10+ routes Locked Out and Master Lock. It's located up on a bit of a pedestal, and starts out quite thin and bouldery with speckled tan and varnished rock.

Protection

Lots of finger-sized cams from BD .3 to .5. I also used some small c3s with runners to protect the start. The route is long and I think I remember a 70m rope being necessary.