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Peak Mountain 3

Scalped

FA John Burcham and Larry Coats, 2004.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another line to tick on the 5.11 trad circuit while at Tomahawk. It's a worthwhile route with good variety, although we felt it certainly didn't match the quality of its neighbors.

P1- Stem up into the obvious left-facing dihedral to a bolt protecting an awkward hump (layback or thrutch) over the first bulge. Stem up the corner to the second bulge, which demands a very difficult mantle hump to surmount. Traverse left on good edges past 2 more bolts to a 2-bolt belay (no chains) on blocks. .11, 60'

P2-Follow the crack upward, starting with some tough .3 BD sizes through changing corners, but progressively widening and easing off. There is some lichen to contend with, but it's still pretty good crack climbing. When the system ends, dance around a huge detached block via easy, unprotected slab until you can stand on it and head back left. Exit via a steep, left-angling #4 BD crack (fist or layback) with licheny feet. Build a gear belay on the summit. .11-, 90'

Location

On the north face. Starts with a bolt at 15' in an obvious left-facing dihedral. About 15' or so left of Red Pillar Left.

The rap anchor is further west on the edge of the summit from where the route tops out. Rap back into the notch behind the spire in a full 35m rappel (single 70m rope). 

Protection

In BD sizes: (2X) red C3-.75 (1X) #1, #2, #4 Slings, draws. (1X) 70m rope