- Edit (TBD)
Description
I can't believe this route isn't on Mountain Project! This is a major classic!
The route begins in an easy dihedral with lots of stemming options. After about 20 feet the walls smooth out to form a perfectly blank corner split by a 4-5 inch crack. No faking it. Off width technique is mandatory. Near the top, the crack widens up and you can wiggle inside a pod and cop a rest before continuing to the chains.
Location
A few minutes walk to the right (north) of Hackberry Crack. Walk the trail past the black slabs and past the obvious chimney of GV. Look for the striking wide crack in prefect gray rock.
Protection
I placed one #2, one #4 and two #5 Camelots, and a #4 Helium Friend. You could probably find a #3 Camelot down low. You can place a #6 as well, though I'm not sure it's worth hauling up. This route is equipped with a bolted anchor.
Routes in Walls Of Moria
- 20In The Crack Or On Your Back5.10cTrad